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Malawi, the warm heart of Africa

We have been looking forward to Malawi for quite a few months now. The country wasn’t even on our list for the first section of our trip, but we kept on meeting people that were raving about it. Would it be as beautiful as they describe it? Was it really still...
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Zambia, the falls and the wildlife

The border crossing from Namibia into Zambia won’t be forgotten by our wallet any time soon for sure. While Caroline was looking after the bikes on the parking lot, I was working my way through the series of office windows and it won’t surprise anyone they all...
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Bye bye Angola!

From the province of Namibe, in the south of Angola, we took the dirt road to Virei. It felt great to unroll our sleeping pad in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by big boulders and Walwitscha plants, and to sleep under the fabulous starry sky of the Namibe d...
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Angola, what a country!

The track right after the border crossing in Noqui, Angola, would be a nightmare. At least that’s what they made us believe. But with the rainy season coming to an end and the track being dry, the ride to Mbanza Congo was pretty enjoyable. The Congolese kept u...
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A night in no man’s land

Entering Cabinda was easy. Getting out proved to be a lot harder though. The border between Cabinda and Congo-Kinshasa was suspiciously calm that afternoon, apart from that lonely soldier: ‘You guys will have to come back tomorrow. Today is may 1st’. Damn, Lab...
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Muddy tracks all over

It started pouring down pretty badly in Kribi (Cameroon), just as we started the 200 km piste to Ebolowa. We doubted for a while, but the idea that it all wouldn’t be that bad kind of prevailed. Travelers tend to evolve to a somewhat more optimistic nature I g...
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Green and peaceful Cameroon

Crossing the border from Nigeria into Cameroon takes a while, but in the end we manage to get through without any problems. We found Nigeria rather crowded and somewhat aggressive at times, albeit verbally, not physically. Entering Cameroon is a true relief: t...
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Benin and the rush through Nigeria

We cross the border with Benin from Tamberma land and after some riding back and forth for the right stamps in our passports, we finally set off to the south. It is bloody hot again at noon and the sun has no mercy. And right thén, as I overtake one of the slo...
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Voodoo and bats in Togo

We enter Togo through a pretty small border checkpoint. They hardly see more than a few Togolese or Ghanese mopeds passing by every now and then. That means it’s going to be a bit of a struggle searching for the right guy that knows how to do the paperwork and...
Mole National Park Ghana

Ghana, heat and hospitality

The first stop in Ghana is Mole National Park in the north of the country. If you want to spot elephants then this is the place to be so we were told more than once along the road. And elephants we saw, that much is true. After a mere 15 minute walk into the f...
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Waterfalls and hippos

Tom has recovered fine from malaria and the visa for Ghana are finally there. So it’s time to say goodbeye to Guillaume and the team from Le Pavillon Vert in Ouagadougou. We’re setting off to the Karfiguéla falls in Burkina Faso. With a landscape that turns gr...
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Those bloody mosquitoes

The last few kilometers on our way to the Burkina border confronted us with some hard reality. Troubles in the north of the country with extremists and bandits pretty much ruined the entire tourist sector and that leaves quite a few visible traces: the road to...